The aroma of cured meats, the sight of towering sandwiches, and the cacophony of bustling servers – these are the hallmarks of a true New York City delicatessen. For decades, two names have reigned supreme in this culinary landscape: Katz’s Delicatessen and Carnegie Deli. While Carnegie Deli sadly closed its doors in 2016, its legendary status and lasting impact on the deli scene demand its inclusion in this comparison. The question remains: Which was, and in some ways still is, better? We’ll delve deep into the history, food, ambiance, and overall experience to determine a champion.
A Bite of History: The Stories Behind the Legends
Understanding the history of these institutions is crucial to appreciating their significance. Both delis have woven themselves into the fabric of New York City culture.
Katz’s: A Century of Cured Meats
Katz’s Delicatessen, established in 1888, boasts a history that stretches back over a century. Originally named Iceland Brothers, the deli was acquired by the Katz family in 1903. Located on East Houston Street in the Lower East Side, Katz’s became a haven for immigrants arriving in New York. It served as a place to connect with familiar flavors and a taste of home.
During World War II, Katz’s famously encouraged patrons to “Send a salami to your boy in the army,” solidifying its patriotic image. The deli’s longevity and dedication to tradition have made it a true New York icon. It has starred in movies such as “When Harry Met Sally,” forever linking it with the city’s romantic and cultural landscape.
Carnegie Deli: A Broadway Tradition
Carnegie Deli, founded in 1937 by Milton Parker and his step-father, quickly became a favorite haunt for Broadway actors, musicians, and comedians. Its location near the theater district made it the perfect spot for a pre- or post-show meal.
Known for its oversized portions and celebrity-named sandwiches, Carnegie Deli embraced its theatrical surroundings. Photos of famous patrons lined the walls, creating a gallery of entertainment legends. Sadly, after 79 years, Carnegie Deli closed its Manhattan location in 2016, citing rising costs and personal struggles within the family. A brief revival in Madison Square Garden and some licensed locations kept the flame alive, but the original is no more.
The Main Event: Food Face-Off
The heart of any deli experience is, of course, the food. Let’s break down the key menu items and compare how Katz’s and Carnegie Deli approached them.
Pastrami: The King of Delicatessen
Pastrami is arguably the most important item on any New York deli menu. The process of curing, smoking, and steaming the meat is an art form, and both Katz’s and Carnegie Deli were renowned for their pastrami.
Katz’s pastrami is hand-carved, a crucial element that contributes to its tenderness and flavor. The meat is moist, flavorful, and has a distinctive peppery crust. The fat is rendered perfectly, adding to the overall richness of the experience.
Carnegie Deli’s pastrami was equally impressive in size and flavor. Their sandwiches were notoriously huge, often requiring diners to disassemble them before eating. The pastrami was thick-cut and juicy, though some found it slightly less refined than Katz’s.
Corned Beef: A Salty Sensation
While pastrami often takes center stage, corned beef is another deli staple. Both delis offered their own versions of this brined and boiled beef.
Katz’s corned beef is known for its balanced flavor and tender texture. The brine is carefully formulated to create a salty, savory taste without being overpowering. The meat is cooked to perfection, resulting in a melt-in-your-mouth experience.
Carnegie Deli’s corned beef, like its pastrami, was known for its generous portions. The corned beef was flavorful and satisfying, though perhaps not as consistently tender as Katz’s.
Sandwich Construction: Size Matters (Or Does It?)
The way a sandwich is constructed is just as important as the quality of the ingredients. Both delis took pride in their sandwich-making skills, but their approaches differed significantly.
Katz’s sandwiches are piled high with meat, but they are also carefully balanced to ensure that each bite is flavorful and satisfying. The rye bread is sturdy enough to hold the massive amount of meat, and the mustard adds a tangy counterpoint to the richness of the pastrami or corned beef.
Carnegie Deli was famous for its ridiculously oversized sandwiches. The sheer volume of meat was often overwhelming, and many diners found it difficult to eat an entire sandwich in one sitting. While impressive in size, some argued that the focus on quantity detracted from the overall quality and enjoyment.
Other Deli Staples: Pickles, Knishes, and More
Beyond the pastrami and corned beef, both Katz’s and Carnegie Deli offered a range of other deli staples, including pickles, knishes, matzo ball soup, and more.
Katz’s is known for its free pickles, which are fermented in-house. These pickles are crunchy, tangy, and add a refreshing contrast to the richness of the meat. Their knishes are also highly regarded, with a flaky crust and a savory filling.
Carnegie Deli offered a similar selection of deli classics. Their pickles were also a popular accompaniment to their sandwiches, and their matzo ball soup was a comforting and flavorful starter.
The Ambiance: A Tale of Two Worlds
The atmosphere of a deli is an integral part of the overall experience. Katz’s and Carnegie Deli each had their own unique vibe that contributed to their legendary status.
Katz’s: A Timeless Classic
Stepping into Katz’s is like stepping back in time. The walls are covered with photographs and memorabilia, and the atmosphere is lively and bustling. The ticket system, where you receive a ticket upon entry and have it stamped at each station, adds to the sense of tradition. It’s a sensory overload in the best possible way.
The deli’s location in the Lower East Side gives it a gritty, authentic feel. It’s a place where tourists and locals mingle, all united by their love of great deli food. The communal tables encourage conversation and a sense of shared experience.
Carnegie Deli: A Broadway Backstage Pass
Carnegie Deli’s location near the theater district gave it a distinctly theatrical atmosphere. The walls were lined with photos of famous actors, musicians, and comedians, creating a gallery of entertainment legends.
The deli was often crowded and chaotic, but that was part of its charm. It felt like you were getting a backstage pass to the world of Broadway. The waiters were often gruff but efficient, adding to the overall sense of New York attitude.
The Verdict: A Matter of Taste (and Perspective)
So, which was better, Katz’s or Carnegie Deli? The answer is subjective and depends on what you’re looking for in a deli experience.
Katz’s offers a more consistently high-quality product. The pastrami is perfectly hand-carved, the corned beef is tender and flavorful, and the pickles are a refreshing complement to the rich meats. The ambiance is timeless and authentic, offering a true taste of old New York.
Carnegie Deli, on the other hand, was known for its sheer size and theatrical atmosphere. The portions were enormous, and the celebrity-studded walls created a sense of excitement and glamour. However, some found that the focus on quantity detracted from the overall quality of the food.
Ultimately, the choice between Katz’s and Carnegie Deli comes down to personal preference. If you’re looking for a classic deli experience with consistently high-quality food, Katz’s is the clear winner. If you’re looking for an over-the-top experience with enormous portions and a theatrical atmosphere, Carnegie Deli (in its memory) might have been more your style. Regardless, both delis have left an indelible mark on the New York City culinary landscape, and their legacies will continue to be celebrated for years to come. Katz’s continues to thrive as a symbol of New York’s culinary history, while Carnegie Deli remains a beloved memory, its absence keenly felt by deli aficionados. Both represent a significant chapter in the story of the American delicatessen.
What are the key differences between Katz’s Delicatessen and Carnegie Deli?
Katz’s Delicatessen, established in 1888, is known for its old-world charm, vast menu, and communal seating. Its signature dish is the hand-carved pastrami on rye, famous for its generous portions and rich flavor. The atmosphere is bustling and steeped in history, with walls adorned with celebrity photos and a system of ticket keeping that adds to the experience. Katz’s emphasizes tradition and offers a wide variety of deli staples alongside newer menu items.
Carnegie Deli, while closed permanently in 2016, was famed for its towering sandwiches, particularly its corned beef. Its portions were notoriously large, often requiring customers to share or take leftovers home. Unlike Katz’s, Carnegie Deli cultivated a more theatrical persona, with exaggerated sandwich sizes and a focus on attracting tourists. While both offered classic New York deli fare, Carnegie Deli leaned towards spectacle while Katz’s prioritized the quality and tradition of its food.
Why is Katz’s pastrami so highly regarded?
Katz’s pastrami begins with a meticulously selected cut of beef, typically the navel, which is then brined for several weeks using a secret family recipe. This brining process imparts deep flavor and helps tenderize the meat. After brining, the pastrami is coated in a spice rub, smoked slowly for days, and finally steamed to perfection.
The final steaming is crucial to achieving the signature moistness and tenderness that Katz’s pastrami is known for. Skilled cutters hand-carve each order, ensuring the perfect balance of lean and fatty meat. The combination of high-quality ingredients, time-honored techniques, and expert execution results in a pastrami that is intensely flavorful, exceptionally tender, and consistently delicious.
What was the significance of Carnegie Deli’s portion sizes?
Carnegie Deli’s enormous portion sizes became a defining characteristic, contributing significantly to its brand and popularity. Sandwiches were piled high with meat, often exceeding what a single person could reasonably consume in one sitting. This abundance became a deliberate strategy, attracting attention and generating buzz.
The oversized portions created a sense of spectacle and value, even though the prices were relatively high. Sharing a sandwich became a common practice, further reinforcing the deli’s reputation for generosity. While some criticized the wastefulness, the enormous sandwiches ultimately became an integral part of the Carnegie Deli experience and its lasting legacy.
Are there vegetarian options at Katz’s Delicatessen?
While Katz’s Delicatessen is primarily known for its meat-centric offerings, there are vegetarian options available, though they are not as extensive as the meat selections. These options cater to a broader range of dietary preferences, acknowledging the need for inclusive choices.
Vegetarian offerings include items such as the potato latkes, a classic Jewish comfort food, and the vegetable soup. They also offer a variety of salads and side dishes that are vegetarian-friendly. While not the primary focus, these options provide viable alternatives for vegetarian diners seeking a taste of Katz’s.
How did the atmosphere differ between the two delis?
Katz’s Delicatessen cultivates a bustling and authentic atmosphere steeped in history. The walls are adorned with photos of celebrities who have dined there, and the ticket system, where customers receive a ticket upon entry and have it marked at each station, adds to the old-world charm. The communal seating encourages interaction and a sense of shared experience.
Carnegie Deli, in contrast, presented a more theatrical and tourist-oriented atmosphere. While it also featured celebrity photos, the focus was less on historical authenticity and more on creating a memorable, albeit sometimes exaggerated, experience. The emphasis on enormous portions and the overall presentation contributed to a feeling of spectacle that differed from Katz’s more grounded approach.
What happened to the Carnegie Deli?
The Carnegie Deli closed its original location in Manhattan in 2016. The closure followed a series of issues, including health code violations and a dispute among family members who owned the business. The combination of these factors ultimately led to the decision to permanently shut its doors.
While the original location is closed, the Carnegie Deli brand has continued in other forms. There are licensed locations in other cities and the brand is sometimes associated with pop-up events. However, the closure of the Manhattan flagship marked the end of an era for a deli that was once a New York institution.
What made these delis iconic New York establishments?
Both Katz’s Delicatessen and Carnegie Deli became iconic New York establishments due to a combination of factors including their historical significance, the quality and unique characteristics of their food, and their representation of New York City culture. They served as meeting places for locals and tourists alike, contributing to the city’s vibrant culinary scene.
Their longevity, particularly in the case of Katz’s, speaks to their ability to adapt while maintaining their core identity. They each contributed to the narrative of New York as a melting pot of cultures and a place where culinary traditions are celebrated and passed down through generations, solidifying their place in the city’s history.