So, you’ve rocked purple hair for a while, and now you’re itching for a change. Maybe you’re dreaming of blonde bombshell status, or perhaps a completely different vibrant hue is calling your name. But there’s that persistent purple standing in the way. Your first thought? Bleach, of course. But hold on! Bleaching over purple hair isn’t as straightforward as it seems. You need to understand the potential outcomes, the processes involved, and how to minimize damage to achieve your hair goals. This comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need to know.
Understanding Purple Hair and Bleach
Before diving into the bleaching process, it’s crucial to understand the chemistry at play. Purple hair dye, whether permanent, semi-permanent, or direct dye, contains pigments that have bonded to your hair shaft. Bleach, on the other hand, works by oxidizing these pigments, effectively breaking them down and lightening the hair. The interaction between bleach and purple dye can be unpredictable, depending on several factors.
The Type of Purple Dye Matters
The type of purple dye used significantly impacts the bleaching process. Direct dyes, also known as semi-permanent dyes, generally coat the hair shaft rather than penetrating it deeply. These dyes tend to fade more quickly and are usually easier to lift with bleach. However, they can sometimes leave behind stubborn stains, especially if the color was very intense or if the hair was particularly porous.
Permanent purple dyes, on the other hand, contain smaller dye molecules that penetrate the hair cortex. These dyes are designed to be more resistant to fading and washing out. Bleaching over permanent purple dye can be more challenging, often requiring multiple sessions to achieve the desired level of lightness. The underlying pigments can also be more difficult to neutralize.
Semi-permanent dyes fall somewhere in between. They penetrate the hair shaft to some extent but are not as deeply embedded as permanent dyes. Bleaching semi-permanent purple dye can be moderately challenging, depending on the specific dye formulation and the condition of your hair.
The Role of Undertones
One of the biggest concerns when bleaching over purple hair is the potential for unwanted undertones. Purple is a combination of red and blue pigments. When you bleach purple hair, these pigments don’t always lift evenly. Red pigments are notoriously stubborn and can often linger even after multiple bleaching sessions.
This can lead to unwanted pink or reddish-orange undertones in your hair. Similarly, blue pigments can sometimes result in greenish or ashy tones. The exact undertones you’ll encounter will depend on the specific purple dye used, your hair’s natural color, and the strength of the bleach.
Hair Porosity: A Key Factor
Hair porosity refers to your hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture. High porosity hair has a more open cuticle, allowing it to absorb moisture quickly but also lose it just as easily. Low porosity hair has a tightly closed cuticle, making it resistant to moisture absorption.
Porosity plays a crucial role in how your hair responds to bleach. Highly porous hair tends to absorb dye more readily, making it more difficult to remove. It’s also more susceptible to damage from bleaching. Low porosity hair may resist the dye initially, but it can still be damaged by the bleaching process if not handled carefully.
What to Expect When Bleaching Purple Hair
So, what actually happens when you apply bleach to purple hair? The answer is, it depends. However, there are some common scenarios you might encounter.
Scenario 1: Uneven Lifting
As mentioned earlier, uneven lifting is a common issue when bleaching over purple hair. The bleach may lift some areas more quickly than others, resulting in a patchy or uneven color. This is particularly likely if the purple dye was applied unevenly or if your hair has varying levels of porosity.
Scenario 2: The Emergence of Unwanted Tones
Prepare for the possibility of unwanted tones! Pink, orange, yellow, green, and ashy tones are all potential outcomes of bleaching over purple hair. These tones are caused by the residual pigments in the purple dye and the underlying pigments in your natural hair.
Scenario 3: Damage and Breakage
Bleach is a harsh chemical that can strip your hair of its natural oils and proteins. Bleaching over already-colored hair increases the risk of damage, especially if your hair is already dry, brittle, or damaged. Over-processing can lead to breakage, split ends, and a generally unhealthy appearance.
Scenario 4: A Muddy Mess
In some cases, bleaching over purple hair can result in a muddy or unclear color. This happens when the bleach mixes the remaining purple pigments with the underlying tones in your hair, creating a murky, undefined hue. This is particularly common when attempting to bleach dark purple hair to a very light blonde in a single session.
Preparing Your Hair for Bleaching
Before you even think about reaching for the bleach, it’s essential to prepare your hair properly. This will help minimize damage and increase your chances of achieving a desirable outcome.
Strengthening Treatments
Start using strengthening treatments weeks before bleaching. Protein treatments, like those containing keratin or amino acids, can help rebuild and strengthen the hair shaft, making it more resistant to damage. Deep conditioning masks can also help replenish moisture and improve the overall health of your hair.
Deep Conditioning
Moisturized hair is healthy hair. Deep conditioning treatments can help to improve the elasticity of your hair and make it more resilient to chemical processing. Focus on using moisturizing masks and conditioners that contain ingredients like shea butter, coconut oil, or hyaluronic acid.
Avoid Heat Styling
Lay off the heat styling tools in the weeks leading up to your bleaching session. Heat styling can dry out and weaken your hair, making it more susceptible to damage from bleach. If you absolutely must use heat, be sure to use a heat protectant spray.
Strand Test
A strand test is non-negotiable. Before applying bleach to your entire head, perform a strand test on a small, inconspicuous section of your hair. This will allow you to see how your hair reacts to the bleach and give you a better idea of the potential outcome.
The Bleaching Process: Step-by-Step
If you’ve decided to proceed with bleaching your purple hair, it’s crucial to follow a careful and methodical process.
Gather Your Supplies
You’ll need: bleach powder, developer (choose the appropriate volume based on your hair’s condition and desired level of lift), a mixing bowl, a tint brush, gloves, a towel to protect your clothing, and a timer.
Mix the Bleach
Follow the instructions on the bleach powder and developer packaging to mix the bleach properly. The consistency should be similar to yogurt. Be careful not to over-mix, as this can activate the bleach prematurely.
Apply the Bleach
Apply the bleach evenly to your hair, starting at the roots and working your way down to the ends. Use the tint brush to ensure that all strands are thoroughly saturated. Avoid overlapping the bleach onto previously bleached areas, as this can cause damage.
Monitor the Lifting Process
Keep a close eye on your hair as the bleach processes. Check the color every few minutes to ensure that it’s lifting evenly and that you’re not experiencing any adverse reactions.
Rinse and Tone
Once your hair has reached the desired level of lightness, rinse it thoroughly with cool water. Then, apply a toner to neutralize any unwanted undertones. Choose a toner that is specifically formulated to counteract the tones in your hair (e.g., a purple toner for yellow tones, a blue toner for orange tones).
Deep Condition
After toning, apply a deep conditioning mask to replenish moisture and repair any damage caused by the bleaching process. Leave the mask on for at least 20 minutes, then rinse thoroughly.
Dealing with Unwanted Tones After Bleaching
Even with careful planning and execution, you may still end up with unwanted tones after bleaching your purple hair. Don’t despair! There are several ways to neutralize these tones and achieve a more desirable color.
Toning
As mentioned earlier, toning is a crucial step in neutralizing unwanted tones. Choose a toner that is specifically formulated to counteract the tones in your hair. For example, if you have yellow tones, use a purple toner. If you have orange tones, use a blue toner.
Color Correcting Shampoos and Conditioners
Color-correcting shampoos and conditioners can help to subtly adjust the tone of your hair over time. Blue shampoos are effective for neutralizing orange tones, while purple shampoos are effective for neutralizing yellow tones.
Professional Help
If you’re struggling to neutralize unwanted tones on your own, don’t hesitate to seek professional help from a qualified colorist. A colorist can assess your hair’s condition and recommend the best course of action for achieving your desired color.
Preventing Damage and Maintaining Healthy Hair
Bleaching can be damaging to your hair, so it’s essential to take steps to prevent damage and maintain healthy hair after the process.
Use a Deep Conditioner Regularly
Deep conditioning is essential for replenishing moisture and repairing damage. Use a deep conditioner at least once a week, or more often if your hair is particularly dry or damaged.
Minimize Heat Styling
Limit your use of heat styling tools, as heat can further damage bleached hair. When you do use heat, be sure to use a heat protectant spray.
Protect Your Hair from the Sun
The sun can also damage bleached hair, causing it to become dry, brittle, and faded. Wear a hat or scarf when you’re spending time outdoors, and use a hair product that contains UV protection.
Get Regular Trims
Regular trims can help to remove split ends and prevent further breakage. Aim to get your hair trimmed every 6-8 weeks.
Bleaching over purple hair is a complex process that requires careful planning, execution, and aftercare. By understanding the potential outcomes, preparing your hair properly, and following a meticulous bleaching process, you can increase your chances of achieving your desired color while minimizing damage. Remember, patience is key, and sometimes seeking professional help is the best option.
What color should I expect my hair to turn after bleaching purple hair?
Bleaching purple hair rarely results in a pure, even blonde. The underlying tones of the purple dye, especially if it was a cool-toned purple, often leave behind pink or red hues. You’ll likely end up with a shade of pink, rose gold, or even a strawberry blonde. The exact result will depend on the original purple’s intensity, the bleach strength, and how long the bleach is processed.
The remaining color is due to the purple dye’s pigments bonding strongly to the hair shaft. Bleach can lift some of the artificial color, but stubborn pigments, especially red and pink, tend to linger. This is because these pigments are smaller and more easily penetrate the hair cortex, making them harder to remove completely. Expect to require multiple bleaching sessions or color correction techniques to achieve a completely neutral base for future colors.
How damaging is bleaching over purple hair compared to bleaching natural hair?
Bleaching over already colored hair, including purple, is generally more damaging than bleaching natural, untreated hair. The hair has already been chemically altered by the purple dye, making it more porous and susceptible to breakage. The added stress of the bleach can further weaken the hair structure, leading to dryness, split ends, and increased porosity.
The existing purple dye can also interfere with the bleaching process, causing uneven lifting and potentially requiring a stronger bleach or longer processing time, which intensifies the damage. It’s crucial to assess your hair’s condition before bleaching and use a low-volume developer. Incorporating deep conditioning treatments and protein masks into your routine is essential to minimize damage and maintain hair health.
How long should I wait between bleaching purple hair and applying another bleach session?
Patience is key when dealing with bleaching already colored hair. It’s generally recommended to wait at least two to four weeks between bleaching sessions after bleaching purple hair. This allows your hair to recover from the initial chemical process and rebuild some of its strength. Rushing the process can lead to severe damage and breakage.
During this waiting period, focus on deep conditioning treatments, protein masks, and moisturizing products to replenish lost moisture and strengthen the hair. Regularly assess your hair’s condition, looking for signs of damage like excessive dryness, breakage, or split ends. If your hair feels particularly fragile, consider waiting even longer before attempting another bleaching session.
What developer volume should I use when bleaching over purple hair?
Choosing the right developer volume is crucial to minimize damage when bleaching over purple hair. Opt for a low-volume developer, such as 10 or 20 volume. Lower volumes lift the color more gently and slowly, reducing the risk of over-processing and damage. Using a higher volume might seem like it will lift the color faster, but it also dramatically increases the potential for breakage and irreversible damage.
The lower volume developer is preferable because it allows for more control over the lifting process and reduces the risk of uneven results. Monitor the hair closely during processing and adjust the timing accordingly. If the purple is particularly stubborn, multiple sessions with a low-volume developer are preferable to one aggressive session with a high-volume developer.
How can I neutralize any remaining purple or pink tones after bleaching?
After bleaching purple hair, you’ll likely be left with some pink or red undertones. To neutralize these tones, you can use a toner or color-depositing shampoo in shades of green or ash blonde. Green cancels out red, and ash blonde neutralizes pink or purple hues. Choose a toner with a violet base if you have yellow undertones as well.
Apply the toner or color-depositing shampoo according to the product instructions, paying close attention to the development time. It is wise to perform a strand test before applying the toner to the entire head to ensure the desired result. Following up with a deep conditioner will help restore moisture and balance the hair’s pH level after toning.
What aftercare routine is best after bleaching purple hair?
After bleaching purple hair, prioritize hydration and protein to restore the hair’s health and prevent further damage. Implement a deep conditioning treatment at least once a week to replenish moisture and improve elasticity. Use a protein mask every other week to strengthen the hair shaft and prevent breakage.
Avoid heat styling as much as possible and always use a heat protectant spray when heat styling is unavoidable. Switch to a sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner to prevent stripping the hair of its natural oils. Incorporate a leave-in conditioner or hair oil to provide continuous hydration and protect against environmental damage. Regular trims can also help remove split ends and maintain healthy hair growth.
When should I seek professional help when bleaching over purple hair?
If you’re unsure about the process, your hair is already damaged, or you’re aiming for a significantly different color than what you currently have, it’s always best to seek professional help. A professional hairstylist has the knowledge and experience to assess your hair’s condition, choose the right products and techniques, and minimize the risk of damage. They can also offer personalized advice on how to care for your hair after the bleaching process.
Attempting to drastically change your hair color at home, especially when dealing with pre-existing color and potential damage, can often lead to undesirable results and further harm. A color correction specialist can ensure the process is done safely and effectively, ultimately saving you time, money, and potential hair disasters in the long run.