Embarking on a hair coloring journey can be exciting, but it also requires a solid understanding of the tools and processes involved. One of the most crucial components is the developer, and choosing the right volume is paramount for achieving your desired results. For those with brown hair considering a color change, 30 volume developer is a frequent choice. But what exactly does it do? Let’s delve into the specifics.
Understanding Hair Developer: The Key to Color Change
Hair developer, also known as peroxide, is an oxidizing agent. Its primary function is to open the hair cuticle, allowing the hair dye to penetrate the hair shaft and deposit color. Without developer, hair dye would simply sit on the surface, resulting in minimal or no change.
Developer also activates the dye molecules, enabling them to latch onto the hair’s protein structure. This process is crucial for permanent and demi-permanent hair color.
The “volume” of a developer refers to its concentration of hydrogen peroxide. Higher volumes have a greater lifting power, meaning they can lighten the natural hair color more effectively. Different volumes are used for different purposes, ranging from subtle color changes to significant lightening.
The Role of Hydrogen Peroxide
Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is the active ingredient in hair developers. It breaks down into water and oxygen when mixed with hair dye. The released oxygen is what lifts the natural pigment from the hair. The higher the concentration of hydrogen peroxide, the more oxygen is released, and the greater the lift.
Hydrogen peroxide’s chemical action involves oxidizing the melanin pigments within the hair shaft. Melanin is responsible for the hair’s natural color. By oxidizing these pigments, the hair lightens. Simultaneously, the hair dye molecules are able to bind to the now-exposed protein structure of the hair.
Developer and Ammonia: A Synergistic Relationship
While the developer itself opens the hair cuticle, ammonia, often found in permanent hair dyes, works in tandem to further swell the hair shaft. This allows for deeper penetration of the dye and more effective color deposit. The combination of developer and ammonia is especially potent for significant color changes and covering gray hair.
30 Volume Developer: A Closer Look
30 volume developer contains approximately 9% hydrogen peroxide. It’s considered a medium-strength developer, offering a balance between lifting power and hair damage. It is generally capable of lifting hair color by 2-3 levels.
This volume is a popular choice for those with brown hair who want to achieve a noticeable but not drastic color change. It’s effective for lightening hair a few shades, covering gray hair, and achieving vibrant color results.
Lifting Power on Brown Hair
On brown hair, 30 volume developer can lift the color to a lighter brown, dark blonde, or even a medium blonde, depending on the starting shade and the desired outcome. The darker the initial brown shade, the less dramatic the lift will be. For example, on dark brown hair, 30 volume developer may result in a medium brown or dark blonde.
Factors such as the hair’s porosity, thickness, and previous chemical treatments can also influence the lifting process. Porous hair tends to lift faster, while thicker hair may require a longer processing time.
Ideal Scenarios for Using 30 Volume on Brown Hair
30 volume developer is suitable for various scenarios, including:
- Covering gray hair: The higher volume effectively opens the cuticle, allowing the dye to penetrate and provide thorough coverage.
- Achieving vibrant color results: For bold colors like reds, purples, and blues, 30 volume helps create a lighter base for the dye to adhere to, resulting in a more vibrant and true-to-tone color.
- Lightening brown hair by a few shades: If you want to go from dark brown to medium brown or from medium brown to light brown, 30 volume is a reliable option.
- Balayage and highlights: 30 volume developer can be used to create lighter pieces throughout the hair, adding dimension and brightness.
Potential Drawbacks and Considerations
While 30 volume developer offers significant lifting power, it’s essential to be aware of its potential drawbacks. As a stronger developer, it carries a higher risk of hair damage compared to lower volumes.
Overprocessing can lead to dry, brittle, and damaged hair. It’s crucial to monitor the processing time carefully and avoid exceeding the recommended duration.
Additionally, 30 volume developer can cause scalp irritation or sensitivity in some individuals. Performing a patch test before applying it to the entire head is always recommended.
How to Use 30 Volume Developer on Brown Hair: A Step-by-Step Guide
Using 30 volume developer on brown hair requires careful planning and execution. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you achieve the best possible results:
- Preparation: Gather all the necessary supplies, including hair dye, 30 volume developer, a mixing bowl, a tint brush, gloves, a towel, and a timer. Wear old clothes to protect against staining.
- Patch Test: Perform a patch test at least 48 hours before coloring your hair. Apply a small amount of the dye and developer mixture to a discreet area, such as behind the ear or on the inside of your elbow. Check for any signs of irritation or allergic reaction.
- Mixing: Follow the instructions on the hair dye packaging to mix the dye and developer in the correct proportions. Typically, the ratio is 1:1 or 1:2 (dye to developer). Use a non-metallic bowl and tint brush to ensure proper mixing.
- Application: Apply the mixture evenly to dry, unwashed hair. Start at the roots and work your way down to the ends. If you’re covering gray hair, focus on those areas first.
- Processing Time: Follow the recommended processing time on the hair dye packaging. This is crucial to avoid overprocessing. Regularly check the color development to ensure you’re achieving the desired results. Do not exceed the recommended processing time.
- Rinsing: Once the processing time is complete, rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water until the water runs clear.
- Conditioning: Apply a deep conditioner to help restore moisture and strengthen the hair. Leave the conditioner on for the recommended time, then rinse again.
Protecting Your Hair During and After Coloring
Coloring your hair can strip it of its natural oils and moisture. Protecting your hair during and after the process is essential for maintaining its health and vitality.
Consider using a bond-building treatment, such as Olaplex or Redken pH-Bonder, during the coloring process to minimize damage. These treatments help to strengthen the hair’s internal structure and prevent breakage.
After coloring, use a color-safe shampoo and conditioner to help preserve the color and prevent fading. Avoid washing your hair too frequently, as this can also strip the color.
Deep conditioning treatments should be incorporated into your hair care routine to replenish moisture and improve elasticity. Look for products that contain ingredients like keratin, argan oil, and shea butter.
When to Seek Professional Help
While coloring your hair at home can be a convenient and cost-effective option, there are situations where seeking professional help is recommended.
If you have significantly damaged or chemically treated hair, consulting a professional colorist is crucial. They can assess your hair’s condition and recommend the best course of action to minimize further damage.
If you’re aiming for a drastic color change, such as going from dark brown to blonde, it’s best to leave it to the professionals. Achieving significant lightening requires expertise and precision to avoid damage and ensure even results.
If you’re unsure about the process or have any concerns, don’t hesitate to consult a professional. A qualified colorist can provide personalized advice and help you achieve your desired results safely and effectively.
Alternative Developer Volumes and Their Uses
While 30 volume developer is a popular choice for brown hair, it’s not always the best option for every situation. Other developer volumes offer different levels of lifting power and are suitable for various purposes.
10 Volume Developer: Subtle Changes and Toning
10 volume developer contains approximately 3% hydrogen peroxide. It’s the gentlest option, providing minimal lift and primarily used for depositing color or toning pre-lightened hair. It’s ideal for refreshing existing color, adding shine, or blending gray hairs without significant lightening.
20 Volume Developer: Gentle Lightening and Gray Coverage
20 volume developer contains approximately 6% hydrogen peroxide. It offers a moderate amount of lift, typically 1-2 levels. It’s a versatile option for covering gray hair, lightening hair slightly, or achieving subtle color changes. It is a safe choice for most hair types.
40 Volume Developer: Maximum Lightening Power
40 volume developer contains approximately 12% hydrogen peroxide. It’s the strongest developer available for at-home use, providing the most significant lifting power. It’s typically used for lightening hair several shades or achieving platinum blonde results. However, it carries a high risk of damage and should only be used by experienced individuals or professionals. Using 40 volume developer can easily cause significant damage if not handled properly.
Choosing the Right Volume: Key Considerations
Selecting the appropriate developer volume depends on several factors, including:
- Your desired color result: How many shades lighter do you want to go?
- Your natural hair color: Darker hair requires a higher volume for significant lifting.
- Your hair’s condition: Damaged hair requires a lower volume to minimize further damage.
- The type of hair dye you’re using: Different dyes require different developer volumes.
- Your experience level: If you’re new to hair coloring, start with a lower volume.
| Developer Volume | Hydrogen Peroxide Concentration | Lifting Power (Approximate) | Ideal Use Cases |
|---|---|---|---|
| 10 Volume | 3% | Minimal (Deposits color only) | Toning, refreshing existing color, blending gray hairs |
| 20 Volume | 6% | 1-2 Levels | Gray coverage, subtle lightening, slight color changes |
| 30 Volume | 9% | 2-3 Levels | Moderate lightening, vibrant color results, covering gray hair |
| 40 Volume | 12% | 3-4 Levels | Maximum lightening, achieving platinum blonde |
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Using 30 Volume Developer
Even with careful planning, mistakes can happen when coloring your hair at home. Here are some common errors to avoid when using 30 volume developer:
- Skipping the Patch Test: Always perform a patch test to check for allergies or sensitivities.
- Ignoring Processing Time: Overprocessing can lead to significant damage.
- Using the Wrong Mixing Ratio: Follow the instructions on the hair dye packaging carefully.
- Applying Unevenly: Ensure even application for consistent results.
- Not Protecting Your Hair: Use bond-building treatments and color-safe products.
- Using on Previously Damaged Hair: Damaged hair is more susceptible to further damage.
- Using Metallic Tools: Metallic tools can react with the developer and affect the color result.
- Washing Hair Too Soon After Coloring: Wait at least 48-72 hours before washing your hair.
- Applying Heat Immediately After Coloring: Avoid heat styling for a few days to prevent fading.
Maintaining Your Color-Treated Brown Hair
Once you’ve achieved your desired color, maintaining your hair’s health and vibrancy is crucial. Here are some tips for caring for color-treated brown hair:
- Use Color-Safe Shampoo and Conditioner: These products are formulated to prevent color fading.
- Limit Washing: Washing your hair too frequently can strip the color.
- Use a Deep Conditioner Regularly: Replenish moisture and strengthen the hair.
- Protect Your Hair from the Sun: UV rays can fade color-treated hair.
- Avoid Heat Styling: Excessive heat can damage and dry out the hair.
- Get Regular Trims: Trimming split ends prevents breakage and maintains hair health.
- Consider a Leave-In Conditioner: This can help detangle and moisturize the hair.
Choosing the right developer volume is essential for achieving your desired hair color results. While 30 volume developer is a versatile option for brown hair, it’s crucial to understand its lifting power, potential drawbacks, and how to use it safely and effectively. By following the guidelines outlined in this article, you can confidently embark on your hair coloring journey and achieve beautiful, healthy, and vibrant brown hair.
What is 30 volume developer and how does it work?
30 volume developer is a chemical solution containing hydrogen peroxide that is used to lighten hair color. The “30 volume” refers to the concentration of hydrogen peroxide, specifically 9%. This percentage indicates its lifting power – the higher the volume, the more effectively it can lift pigment from the hair. It works by opening the hair cuticle, allowing the hydrogen peroxide to penetrate the hair shaft and oxidize the melanin (pigment) responsible for hair color.
When the developer oxidizes the melanin, it breaks it down, effectively lightening the hair. The developer is typically mixed with hair dye or bleach powder. In the case of hair dye, the developer not only lightens the hair but also allows the dye molecules to penetrate and deposit color. With bleach, the developer’s primary function is to lighten the hair several levels, preparing it for a new color or achieving a lighter overall shade.
How much lighter can 30 volume developer lift brown hair?
On average, 30 volume developer can lift brown hair approximately 2-3 levels. This means a dark brown hair can be lifted to a light brown or even a dark blonde, depending on the individual’s hair and the formulation of the dye or bleach used with it. The actual lift achieved can also vary depending on factors like the hair’s porosity, its natural pigment, and how long the developer is left on the hair.
It is crucial to remember that repeatedly using 30 volume developer, especially on darker brown hair aiming for significant lightness, can cause damage. Lifting several levels in one go can stress the hair shaft, leading to dryness, brittleness, and breakage. For significant lightening, it’s often better to proceed gradually with multiple applications or a lower volume developer to minimize damage.
What are the potential risks of using 30 volume developer on brown hair?
Using 30 volume developer poses several risks, primarily related to hair damage. The high concentration of hydrogen peroxide can weaken the hair’s protein structure, leading to dryness, brittleness, and increased susceptibility to breakage. Over-processing, resulting from leaving the developer on for too long or using it too frequently, can lead to irreversible damage and a compromised hair texture.
Furthermore, using 30 volume developer incorrectly can cause chemical burns on the scalp, especially for individuals with sensitive skin. Allergic reactions to the developer or other ingredients in the dye or bleach are also possible. A patch test is always recommended before applying any chemical hair treatment to minimize the risk of allergic reactions. It’s crucial to follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully and consult with a professional hairstylist if you have any concerns.
Is 30 volume developer suitable for covering gray hair on brown hair?
While 20 volume developer is generally preferred for covering gray hair, 30 volume can be used, especially if the natural brown hair is resistant to color or if you’re also aiming for a slight lift in the overall color. The higher volume helps open the hair cuticle more effectively, allowing the dye to penetrate and adhere to the gray hairs. However, using 30 volume solely for gray coverage can be unnecessary and potentially damaging if the hair doesn’t require the extra lift.
When using 30 volume developer for gray coverage on brown hair, it’s particularly important to monitor the processing time carefully to avoid over-processing and damage. It’s also advisable to use a color formulated specifically for gray coverage, as these often contain a higher concentration of pigment to ensure complete and long-lasting coverage. Consider consulting with a professional hairstylist to determine the best approach for your specific hair type and desired outcome.
What precautions should I take when using 30 volume developer on brown hair?
Before using 30 volume developer, always perform a strand test to assess how your hair reacts to the developer and dye or bleach mixture. This helps determine the appropriate processing time and prevents unwanted results or damage. Also, conduct a patch test on your skin to check for any allergic reactions to the chemicals involved. Wear gloves throughout the application process to protect your hands from irritation and potential burns.
Ensure adequate ventilation in the area where you’re applying the developer to avoid inhaling fumes. Apply the developer and dye or bleach mixture evenly, avoiding direct contact with the scalp as much as possible to prevent irritation. Carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions regarding processing time and rinsing procedures. After rinsing, use a deep conditioning treatment to replenish moisture and help repair any potential damage to the hair.
How can I minimize damage when using 30 volume developer on brown hair?
Prior to using 30 volume developer, ensure your hair is in good condition. Avoid using heat styling tools and harsh shampoos in the weeks leading up to the treatment. Consider using a pre-treatment product designed to strengthen and protect the hair during the chemical process. Add bond-building treatments like Olaplex or similar products to your bleach or dye mixture. These products help to rebuild the hair’s internal structure, minimizing damage during the lifting process.
After lightening, prioritize moisturizing and strengthening treatments. Use sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners to avoid stripping the hair of its natural oils. Incorporate deep conditioning masks and protein treatments into your hair care routine to replenish moisture and rebuild the hair’s protein structure. Avoid frequent use of heat styling tools and protect your hair from the sun to prevent further damage and dryness.
What are the alternatives to using 30 volume developer on brown hair?
If you’re concerned about the potential damage from 30 volume developer, consider using a lower volume developer, such as 10 or 20 volume. These gentler developers lift less dramatically but also cause less damage to the hair. Alternatively, explore semi-permanent or demi-permanent hair colors, which deposit color without significantly lifting the natural hair pigment. These options are less damaging and can be a good choice for subtle color changes or covering grays without lightening the hair.
For significant lightening, consider professional highlighting or balayage techniques. These methods often involve strategically placed lightener, minimizing the overall impact on the hair and allowing for a more gradual and controlled lightening process. Another alternative is to use hair color remover before applying new dye. This is less damaging than bleaching with high volume developer, and can provide a more even base for the desired color.