Bleaching your hair is a common process for achieving lighter shades, vibrant colors, or creating a base for fashion tones. A crucial component of the bleaching process is the developer, and 20 volume is a popular choice. But what happens when you don’t achieve your desired lightness after the first attempt? The question then becomes: Can you bleach twice with 20 volume developer, and if so, what are the risks and best practices? This article delves into the intricacies of double bleaching with 20 volume developer, providing a comprehensive guide to help you make informed decisions for your hair’s health and desired look.
Understanding Bleach and Developer
Before considering a second round of bleaching, it’s essential to understand the roles of bleach and developer in hair lightening. Bleach, typically containing persulfates, is the active ingredient that breaks down the hair’s natural pigment (melanin). The developer, usually hydrogen peroxide, activates the bleach and determines the lifting power or level of lightening achieved.
20 volume developer contains 6% hydrogen peroxide. It’s generally considered a milder option compared to higher volumes like 30 or 40. It lifts the hair approximately 1-2 levels and is often preferred for fine or damaged hair or subtle lightening.
How Bleach Works on Hair
When bleach is applied to the hair, it penetrates the hair shaft and oxidizes the melanin. This process breaks down the pigment molecules, making them colorless. The developer’s strength dictates how quickly and effectively this oxidation occurs. Higher volume developers contain a higher concentration of hydrogen peroxide, resulting in faster and more significant lightening.
The Role of 20 Volume Developer
20 volume developer is a versatile choice for various hair lightening needs. It’s gentle enough for root touch-ups, subtle highlights, or all-over lightening for individuals with naturally light hair. It is also often used in conjunction with toners to neutralize unwanted undertones after bleaching. Because it’s less aggressive than higher volumes, it minimizes the risk of damage, but it also means the lifting process is slower and might require multiple applications to achieve desired results, particularly for dark hair.
Is Double Bleaching with 20 Volume Safe?
The answer to whether you can bleach twice with 20 volume is not a simple yes or no. It largely depends on the condition of your hair, the reason for considering a second application, and the amount of time between bleaching sessions.
While 20 volume is gentler than higher volumes, any bleaching process inherently causes some degree of damage. Overlapping bleach applications or excessive processing can lead to significant damage, breakage, and dryness. Therefore, proceeding with caution is crucial.
Factors to Consider Before Double Bleaching
Several factors should be considered before attempting a second bleaching session with 20 volume developer:
- Hair Condition: Evaluate your hair’s current condition. Is it dry, brittle, or prone to breakage? If so, a second bleaching session could exacerbate these issues.
- Hair Porosity: Porous hair absorbs moisture quickly but also loses it just as rapidly, making it more vulnerable to damage. If your hair is highly porous, it might be more susceptible to the harsh effects of bleach.
- Desired Level of Lift: Assess how much lighter you need your hair to be. If you’re only a level or two away from your target shade, a second application of 20 volume might be feasible. However, if you’re significantly far from your goal, a stronger developer or alternative techniques might be more appropriate.
- Time Since Last Bleach: Consider how long it has been since your initial bleaching session. Ideally, you should wait at least two weeks, and preferably longer, to allow your hair to recover and rebuild its protein structure.
- Hair Elasticity: Elasticity refers to your hair’s ability to stretch and return to its original shape without breaking. Test your hair’s elasticity by gently stretching a wet strand. If it breaks easily or doesn’t return to its original length, your hair is likely damaged and not suitable for another bleaching session.
Risks of Double Bleaching
Double bleaching, even with a lower volume developer, carries inherent risks:
- Increased Hair Damage: Each bleaching session weakens the hair shaft, making it more prone to breakage, split ends, and frizz.
- Dryness and Brittleness: Bleach strips the hair of its natural oils and moisture, leading to dryness and brittleness.
- Uneven Lightening: Applying bleach unevenly can result in patchy or inconsistent color.
- Chemical Burns: Although less likely with 20 volume, improper application or prolonged exposure can cause chemical burns to the scalp.
- Hair Loss: In severe cases of over-processing, hair can become so damaged that it breaks off at the root, leading to hair loss.
Best Practices for Double Bleaching with 20 Volume
If you’ve carefully considered the risks and factors mentioned above and decide to proceed with a second bleaching session using 20 volume developer, it’s crucial to follow best practices to minimize damage and maximize results.
Wait and Condition
Waiting is paramount. Give your hair ample time to recover between bleaching sessions. At least two weeks is recommended, but waiting longer (3-4 weeks or more) is even better. During this waiting period, focus on deep conditioning treatments to replenish moisture and protein. Use moisturizing masks, leave-in conditioners, and hair oils to nourish and strengthen your hair.
Strand Test
Before applying bleach to your entire head, perform a strand test. This involves applying the bleach mixture to a small, inconspicuous section of your hair to assess how it reacts. This allows you to gauge the lifting power and potential damage without risking your entire head of hair. Observe the strand carefully and monitor for any signs of excessive damage or breakage.
Use a Protein Filler
Protein fillers can help replenish lost protein in damaged hair, strengthening it before the bleaching process. Apply a protein filler a few days before your second bleaching session to help fortify your hair and reduce the risk of breakage.
Apply Coconut Oil
Applying coconut oil to your hair before bleaching can create a protective barrier that minimizes damage. Coconut oil penetrates the hair shaft and helps to reduce protein loss during the bleaching process. Apply a generous amount of coconut oil to your hair at least an hour before bleaching, or even overnight.
Use a Low and Slow Approach
When applying the bleach, use a low and slow approach. This means applying a thin, even layer of bleach and carefully monitoring the lifting process. Avoid overlapping bleach onto previously lightened sections, as this can cause unnecessary damage.
Check Regularly
Regularly check your hair during the bleaching process. Gently stretch a strand of hair to assess its elasticity. If the hair feels gummy, stretchy, or breaks easily, rinse the bleach immediately.
Rinse Thoroughly
Once the bleach has lifted your hair to the desired level, rinse it thoroughly with cool water. Ensure all traces of bleach are removed from your hair.
Deep Condition Immediately After
After rinsing, apply a deep conditioning treatment to replenish moisture and protein. Choose a conditioner specifically formulated for color-treated or damaged hair. Leave the conditioner on for the recommended time, or even longer for intense hydration.
Consider a Toner
After bleaching, your hair might have unwanted undertones, such as yellow or orange. Use a toner to neutralize these undertones and achieve your desired shade. Choose a toner that is appropriate for your hair color and desired result.
Alternatives to Double Bleaching
If you’re concerned about the potential damage of double bleaching, consider alternative methods to achieve your desired level of lightness:
Higher Volume Developer
Instead of bleaching twice with 20 volume, you could consider using a higher volume developer, such as 30 volume, in a single session. However, be aware that higher volume developers are more potent and can cause more damage. Proceed with caution and perform a strand test first.
Bleach Bath
A bleach bath is a milder alternative to full-strength bleaching. It involves diluting bleach with shampoo and applying it to the hair for a shorter amount of time. This can provide a subtle lift without causing as much damage as a full bleaching session.
Highlights or Balayage
If you’re looking for overall lightening, consider getting highlights or balayage instead of bleaching your entire head. These techniques lighten specific sections of your hair, leaving the rest untouched. This can be a less damaging option, especially if you have dark hair.
Professional Help
Consult a professional hairstylist. A skilled stylist can assess your hair’s condition and recommend the best approach for achieving your desired level of lightness while minimizing damage. They have the expertise and access to professional-grade products to ensure the best possible outcome.
Post-Bleach Care
Regardless of whether you bleach twice or use an alternative method, proper post-bleach care is essential for maintaining the health and appearance of your hair.
Use Sulfate-Free Shampoo and Conditioner
Sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners are gentler on color-treated hair and help to prevent fading and dryness.
Avoid Heat Styling
Heat styling can further damage bleached hair, so try to minimize its use. When you do use heat styling tools, apply a heat protectant spray to shield your hair from damage.
Deep Condition Regularly
Continue to deep condition your hair regularly to replenish moisture and protein. Aim to deep condition at least once a week, or more often if your hair is particularly dry or damaged.
Get Regular Trims
Regular trims help to remove split ends and prevent them from traveling up the hair shaft, which can lead to further breakage. Aim to get a trim every 6-8 weeks.
Protect Your Hair from the Sun
Sun exposure can fade hair color and damage hair, so protect your hair from the sun by wearing a hat or using a hair product with UV protection.
In conclusion, while it is possible to bleach twice with 20 volume developer, it’s not always the best option. Consider your hair’s condition, the desired level of lift, and the potential risks before proceeding. Always prioritize the health of your hair and follow best practices to minimize damage. If you’re unsure, consult a professional hairstylist for personalized advice and guidance.
Can I bleach my hair twice in one session with 20 volume developer?
The general answer is that it’s not recommended to bleach your hair twice in one session, even with a relatively gentle developer like 20 volume. Double processing significantly increases the risk of damage, breakage, and over-processed hair. The hair’s protein structure is already weakened during the first bleaching session, and applying another round of bleach so quickly can further compromise its integrity, leading to irreversible damage. This is especially true if your hair is already damaged or fragile.
However, there are very rare instances where it might be considered, such as if the first bleaching barely lifted the hair color, and the hair seems to be tolerating the process well. In this situation, it is critical to evaluate your hair thoroughly. Make sure to take breaks, apply hair masks, use Olaplex or other bond builders, and examine it closely for signs of weakness or elasticity loss between the sessions. Ultimately, consulting with a professional hair stylist before attempting a double bleaching is always the safest course of action.
What are the risks of bleaching twice in one session with 20 volume developer?
The primary risk is significant hair damage. Bleaching weakens the hair shaft by stripping it of its natural pigments, and doing this twice in a short period exacerbates this process. This can lead to dryness, brittleness, breakage, split ends, and a generally unhealthy appearance of the hair. In severe cases, the hair can become so damaged that it requires a dramatic haircut to remove the severely damaged portions.
Beyond the visible damage, repeated bleaching can also disrupt the hair’s natural porosity and elasticity. Over-processed hair often becomes gummy or mushy when wet, making it incredibly difficult to style and manage. The hair may also become excessively porous, absorbing too much moisture and products, or not retaining moisture at all, leading to further problems.
How long should I wait between bleaching sessions with 20 volume developer?
Ideally, you should wait at least two to four weeks between bleaching sessions, even when using a lower volume developer like 20. This allows your hair to recover and rebuild some of the strength lost during the bleaching process. During this period, focus on deep conditioning treatments, protein masks, and avoiding heat styling to minimize further damage.
The exact waiting time depends on the condition of your hair. If your hair feels dry, brittle, or damaged after the first bleaching session, waiting longer is advisable. Continuously assess your hair’s health and elasticity. If you’re unsure, waiting longer is always the safer option to prevent long-term damage.
What aftercare steps should I take after bleaching with 20 volume developer to minimize damage if I consider a second bleach?
Immediately after bleaching, rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water to help close the cuticle. Follow this with a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner specifically designed for color-treated hair. Focus on products that are sulfate-free and rich in nourishing oils and proteins.
Incorporate deep conditioning treatments and hair masks into your routine at least once or twice a week. Look for products containing ingredients like keratin, argan oil, and shea butter to help repair and hydrate your hair. Minimize heat styling as much as possible, and when you do use heat, always apply a heat protectant spray to shield your hair from damage.
What are the alternatives to bleaching twice in one session with 20 volume developer?
If you’re not achieving the desired level of lightness after the first bleaching session, consider using a toner to neutralize unwanted tones and achieve a more balanced color. Toners deposit color without further lifting, which can improve the overall appearance of your hair without the added damage of another bleaching session.
Another alternative is to gradually lighten your hair over multiple sessions, spaced several weeks apart. This approach allows your hair to recover between each process, minimizing damage and giving you more control over the final result. You can also consider consulting with a professional stylist who can assess your hair and recommend the best course of action for achieving your desired color while preserving its health.
How do I test my hair’s strength before considering a second bleach with 20 volume developer?
Perform a strand test to assess your hair’s elasticity and strength. To do this, gently stretch a single strand of wet hair. If the hair stretches and returns to its original length, it has good elasticity. If it stretches and breaks or doesn’t return to its original length, it indicates poor elasticity and weakened hair.
Also, observe your hair’s texture and feel. If it feels gummy, mushy, or excessively dry, it’s likely already damaged and not suitable for another bleaching session. Consider a protein treatment to help improve its strength before making any decisions on further lightening processes.
When is it absolutely not okay to bleach my hair twice with 20 volume developer in one session?
If your hair is already damaged, brittle, or has undergone previous chemical treatments (perms, relaxers, or multiple bleaching sessions), it’s generally not safe to bleach it twice in one session. Doing so can lead to severe breakage, irreversible damage, and potentially hair loss.
Additionally, if you notice any signs of irritation or burning on your scalp during the first bleaching session, immediately rinse the bleach and avoid attempting a second session. This indicates a sensitivity to the chemicals and can result in further irritation or even chemical burns. Consulting with a professional is strongly advised in these situations.