Achieving the perfect vibrant purple hair can be a stunning transformation. However, before you dive headfirst into a sea of violet hues, understanding the bleaching process is crucial. The level of lightness you need to achieve depends on several factors, including your natural hair color, the desired shade of purple, and the type of purple dye you plan to use. This comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need to know about bleaching your hair for purple, ensuring a beautiful and long-lasting result.
Understanding Hair Color Levels and Bleach
Before we talk about purple, we need to understand the language of hair color. Hair color is categorized using a numerical system, typically ranging from 1 to 10.
- Level 1 represents the darkest black.
- Level 10 represents the lightest blonde.
Bleaching lifts the pigment from your hair, moving it up this scale. The goal is to reach a level where the purple dye can effectively deposit its color without being muddied by the underlying tones in your hair.
The darker your natural hair, the more lifting power (and therefore, more bleaching sessions) will be needed to achieve the desired lightness. Attempting to bypass this process can lead to uneven color, brassiness, and ultimately, a disappointing purple.
The Role of Underlying Pigment
When you bleach your hair, you’re not just removing color; you’re revealing the underlying pigments. Dark hair contains warm pigments like red, orange, and yellow. As you lighten your hair, these pigments become more visible. Getting rid of these underlying tones is critical for true purple.
If you apply purple dye to hair that’s still too orange or yellow, the purple will likely turn muddy or brown. This is because purple dye often contains blue tones, which neutralize orange and yellow. While this can be useful for toning brassiness, it’s not ideal when you want a vibrant, true purple.
The Ideal Bleach Level for Different Purple Shades
The exact level of bleach you need will depend on the specific purple shade you’re aiming for. Lighter purples require a lighter base, while darker purples can tolerate a slightly darker base.
Pastel Purple Dreams
For soft, pastel purples like lavender or lilac, you’ll need to achieve a very light blonde base, typically a level 9 or 10. This means your hair should be almost white with very little yellow remaining. Any remaining yellow tones will muddy the delicate pastel color, resulting in a dull or greenish tint.
Achieving this level of lightness often requires multiple bleaching sessions, especially for those starting with dark hair. Patience is key, as rushing the process can severely damage your hair.
Vibrant, True Purple
For a classic, vibrant purple, a level 8 or 9 is usually sufficient. At this level, your hair will be a pale yellow, similar to the color of the inside of a banana peel. While some yellow is acceptable, it’s still important to minimize brassiness for the truest purple tone.
Toners can be helpful at this stage to neutralize any remaining yellow tones, creating a cleaner canvas for the purple dye.
Deep, Dark Purple and Plum Tones
If you’re aiming for a deep, dark purple like plum or eggplant, you can get away with a slightly darker base, around a level 7. At this level, your hair will be a medium to dark yellow or even a light orange. The darkness of the purple dye will help to cover any remaining warmth in your hair.
However, even with dark purple shades, it’s essential to avoid significant brassiness. Orange tones can still negatively affect the final color, resulting in a muddy or reddish purple instead of a true deep purple.
Choosing the Right Bleach and Developer
Selecting the right bleach and developer is essential for achieving the desired level of lightness while minimizing damage to your hair. Different developers contain different percentages of hydrogen peroxide, which determines their lifting power.
- 10 Volume Developer: Provides the least amount of lift and is best for depositing color or making subtle changes.
- 20 Volume Developer: Lifts 1-2 levels and is suitable for slightly lightening the hair or covering gray.
- 30 Volume Developer: Lifts 2-3 levels and is a common choice for achieving significant lightening.
- 40 Volume Developer: Lifts 3-4 levels and is the strongest developer, but it can also cause the most damage. It should only be used by experienced colorists.
For most purple transformations, a 20 or 30 volume developer will be sufficient. Always start with a lower volume and increase it gradually if needed. It’s always better to do multiple bleaching sessions with a lower volume developer than one session with a high volume developer, as this will minimize damage.
Bleach Types
There are also different types of bleach available, including powder bleach and cream bleach. Powder bleach is typically more potent and can provide more lift, while cream bleach is often gentler and easier to apply. Consider your hair type and desired level of lightness when choosing a bleach.
The Bleaching Process: Step-by-Step
Bleaching at home can be daunting, but with careful preparation and execution, you can achieve salon-worthy results.
- Preparation: Gather all your supplies, including bleach powder, developer, a mixing bowl, a tint brush, gloves, and an old towel to protect your clothing. Perform a strand test to assess how your hair reacts to the bleach.
- Mixing the Bleach: Follow the instructions on your bleach and developer packaging to mix the bleach to the correct consistency.
- Application: Apply the bleach evenly to your hair, starting from the roots (since they process faster due to heat from your scalp). Work your way down to the ends.
- Processing Time: Monitor your hair closely during the processing time, checking every 10-15 minutes to assess the level of lightness. Do not exceed the maximum recommended processing time on the bleach packaging.
- Rinsing and Toning: Once your hair has reached the desired level of lightness, rinse it thoroughly with cool water. Apply a toner to neutralize any remaining yellow or orange tones.
- Deep Conditioning: Bleaching can be drying, so follow up with a deep conditioning treatment to restore moisture and strength to your hair.
Strand Test: Your Hair’s Best Friend
A strand test is non-negotiable. This simple step can save you from disaster. Apply the bleach mixture to a small, inconspicuous section of your hair and monitor how it processes. This will give you a good idea of how long it will take to reach your desired level of lightness and whether the bleach is damaging your hair excessively.
Toning for the Perfect Purple Base
Toner is an essential tool for achieving the perfect purple. It helps to neutralize any remaining yellow or orange tones in your hair, creating a clean, even canvas for the purple dye. Choose a toner that complements your desired purple shade. For example, a blue-based toner can help to counteract yellow tones, while a violet-based toner can help to neutralize orange tones.
Choosing the Right Purple Dye
The type of purple dye you choose will also impact the final result. There are several types of purple dye available, including permanent, semi-permanent, and temporary dyes.
- Permanent Dye: Provides the longest-lasting color but can also be the most damaging.
- Semi-Permanent Dye: Deposits color without lifting the hair’s cuticle, making it a gentler option. However, it will fade more quickly.
- Temporary Dye: Washes out after one or two washes and is a great option for experimenting with purple without committing to a long-term change.
When choosing a purple dye, consider your hair type, desired level of commitment, and the specific shade of purple you’re aiming for.
Maintaining Your Purple Hair
Once you’ve achieved your perfect purple hue, it’s important to take steps to maintain the color and health of your hair.
- Use Sulfate-Free Shampoo: Sulfates can strip the color from your hair, causing it to fade more quickly.
- Wash Your Hair Less Frequently: Over-washing can also contribute to color fading.
- Use Cold Water: Hot water opens the hair’s cuticle, allowing color to escape.
- Protect Your Hair from the Sun: UV rays can also cause color fading.
Deep Conditioning Treatments
Regular deep conditioning treatments are essential for keeping your hair healthy and hydrated. Bleaching can make your hair dry and brittle, so it’s important to replenish moisture and strengthen the hair shaft.
Color-Depositing Conditioners
Color-depositing conditioners can help to refresh your purple color between dye jobs. These conditioners contain small amounts of pigment that deposit color onto your hair with each use.
When to Seek Professional Help
While it’s possible to bleach and dye your hair at home, there are times when it’s best to seek professional help. If you have very dark hair, damaged hair, or are unsure about the process, consult with a professional colorist. They can assess your hair’s condition, recommend the best course of action, and ensure that you achieve your desired purple shade without damaging your hair.
What level does my hair need to be bleached to for purple dye to show properly?
To achieve a vibrant and true purple color, your hair generally needs to be bleached to a level 9 or 10, which is a pale yellow or almost white blonde. This is crucial because purple dye, being a cool-toned color, requires a very light base to show up accurately. If your hair is too dark, the purple will likely appear muddy, brown, or simply won’t be visible at all. Think of your hair as a canvas; a clean, light canvas allows the purple dye to shine without being distorted by underlying pigments.
The specific level needed can also depend slightly on the shade of purple you’re aiming for. Lighter, pastel purples necessitate a level 10 base, while deeper, richer purples might be slightly more forgiving and work on a level 8 or 9. However, for the best and most predictable results, especially if you’re using a semi-permanent or direct dye, bleaching to a level 9 or 10 is the safest bet to avoid disappointment and ensure the purple vibrancy you desire.
Why is bleaching necessary before dyeing my hair purple?
Bleaching is necessary because it removes the natural pigments from your hair, creating a light and neutral base for the purple dye to adhere to and display its true color. Without bleaching, the natural undertones in your hair (such as yellow, orange, or red) will interfere with the purple dye, resulting in a color that’s vastly different from what you expect. Darker hair will absorb the purple, but the underlying pigments will prevent it from showing vividly.
The process of bleaching opens up the hair cuticle, allowing the purple dye molecules to penetrate the hair shaft more effectively. This results in a longer-lasting and more vibrant color. Failing to bleach beforehand often leads to a dull, uneven, or almost unnoticeable purple tint, especially on darker hair colors. Bleaching essentially prepares the hair to receive and properly showcase the purple dye.
How can I minimize damage while bleaching my hair to a light enough level for purple?
To minimize damage while bleaching, focus on using a low-volume developer (10 or 20 volume) and applying the bleach strategically. Avoid overlapping previously bleached hair, as this can cause breakage and further damage. Perform strand tests beforehand to assess how your hair reacts to the bleach and to determine the processing time needed.
Deep conditioning treatments before and after bleaching are crucial. Consider using protein treatments a few weeks prior to strengthen the hair. After bleaching, use hydrating masks and leave-in conditioners to replenish moisture. Avoid heat styling as much as possible in the weeks following the bleaching process. Patience is key; it might require multiple sessions with a gentle bleach to reach the desired level, rather than one harsh bleaching session.
What happens if I dye my hair purple without bleaching it light enough?
If you dye your hair purple without bleaching it light enough, the resulting color will likely be disappointing and significantly different from the shade you were hoping for. On darker hair, the purple may only appear as a subtle tint or a muddy, brown-purple hue in certain lighting. The underlying pigments in your hair will overpower the purple dye, preventing it from showing its true vibrancy.
For example, if your hair is naturally dark brown, the purple dye might only add a slight red or plum undertone. The brighter and lighter the intended purple shade, the more crucial it is to have a sufficiently light base. Without proper bleaching, the purple will struggle to deposit effectively and the final result will lack the desired intensity and clarity.
What are some signs that my hair is too damaged to bleach further for purple dye?
Signs that your hair is too damaged to bleach further include extreme dryness, brittleness, and elasticity. If your hair feels like straw, breaks easily when stretched, or has split ends extending up the hair shaft, it’s likely already over-processed. Observing significant hair loss or noticing a gummy texture when wet are also indicators of severe damage.
Another warning sign is uneven porosity, where some sections of your hair absorb moisture quickly while others remain dry. This can lead to patchy and unpredictable color results. Continuing to bleach damaged hair will only exacerbate these problems, potentially leading to breakage, hair loss, and the inability to hold any color effectively. Consulting with a professional hairstylist is recommended to assess the damage and determine the best course of action.
What type of purple dye is best after bleaching?
After bleaching, semi-permanent or direct dyes are generally the best option for purple hair. These dyes don’t require a developer and are less damaging to the hair compared to permanent dyes, as they deposit color on the surface of the hair shaft rather than penetrating it deeply. They also offer a wider range of vibrant purple shades.
Consider the specific shade of purple you desire. Pastel purples often require very pigmented semi-permanent dyes specifically formulated for pre-lightened hair. Read reviews and research reputable brands known for their longevity and color payoff. Remember that semi-permanent dyes fade with each wash, so using color-safe shampoos and avoiding excessive washing will help maintain the vibrancy of your purple hair.
How can I maintain my bleached and purple-dyed hair to keep the color vibrant and hair healthy?
To maintain bleached and purple-dyed hair, prioritize moisture and minimize further damage. Use sulfate-free and color-safe shampoos and conditioners to prevent color fading and dryness. Incorporate deep conditioning treatments or hair masks at least once a week to replenish moisture and restore elasticity to the hair.
Avoid heat styling as much as possible, and always use a heat protectant spray when using styling tools. Protect your hair from the sun by wearing a hat or using UV-protectant hair products, as sunlight can cause the purple dye to fade quickly. Touch up the color as needed using semi-permanent dyes, and consider using color-depositing conditioners to maintain the vibrancy between dye sessions. Regular trims will help remove split ends and keep your hair looking healthy.